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Perhaps it has something to do with the cold weather we've been having and the dampness combined with a persistent rain that inevitably gets me thinking about the wonderful regional country food one finds in France.  Comfort food, one might say, and it's what takes me to the picturesque and rugged Normandy region where eating is taken very seriously indeed. Doubtful if William the Conqueror would have been nearly as successful had he sailed his armada for the coast of England on a Big Mac, super-sized fries and a large Coke all doing their own battle in his stomach. While Norman recipes lean heavily on apples and cider, local dairy products such as cream and butter, they are for the most part, usually quite simple and the fresh natural flavors can't help but come through in a vast range of dishes such as this fine one. I hope you enjoy!

Chicken with Onions, Calvados, and Cream

(Poussin Vallée d'Auge)

Serves 6

There are two ways that one can prepare this dish. One way is in a large pan (some would argue, perhaps the more traditional style) or second, cooked slowly in an oven. Either way is fine and believe me, the end result is equally delicious. Poussins are 1-lb. squab chickens, larger and meatier than Cornish game hens. This classic Norman preparation, named for the superior calvados-producing region of Pays d'Auge, can be adapted to larger chickens, an ex, other fowl, or pork. In this instance and to remain true to the recipe, I will leave it as our six cute little poussins who lost their way home.

Ingredients

6 cute little poussins (or 2 boneless chicken breasts filet per serving)

2 small apples (tart variety)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tbsp. softened butter

3 1/2 oz chicken stock or fresh cider (from the press out back) 

1 cup of button mushrooms (or champignon de Paris)

2 cups pearl onions 

1⁄2 cup+ calvados (I suppose you could use ordinary brandy, just don't tell me)

3⁄4 cup heavy cream or creme fraiche (ideal)

Directions

Preheat oven to 400°. Wash the birds thoroughly, then drain and dry with paper towels. Rub them with salt inside and out. Pepper each one generously.

Truss poussins in this manner: Fold wing tips back beneath shoulders. Drumsticks should fit snugly against the tips of breastbone. Hold in place by tying the legs together with kitchen twine, then wrap long pieces of twine around the birds to hold things close to body, then wrap it back around the birds and close up tail pieces. Tie twine in bows so it's easy to untie after cooking.

Rub birds with butter. Arrange in an ovenproof pan so they do not touch. Scatter peeled onions around birds. 

Quarter and core apples and cut into small cubes, add-in half the apples and the mushrooms. 

Place pan in lower third of oven and cook for at least 45 minutes, basting several times. Prick fat part of drumstick on 1 bird after 45 minutes. If juice runs clear and drumstick moves easily in its socket, birds are done.

Transfer the now compliant poussins and onions to a serving platter. Scrape pan drippings into a saucepan with a rubber spatula, bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 2 minutes. Use chicken stock as necessary. Add in remaining half of apples. Warm calvados (take a shot just to be sure), add to the pan juices, and flame. When flames die out and you've collected your eyebrows, stir in cream, and continue to reduce sauce until thickened. Adjust seasonings as needed with salt and pepper. Pour sauce over and around poussins and serve.

Serving suggestions

Lightly fry off large slices of French bread (one per portion) to make a crouton and lay this on a large warmed plate. Place chicken on the crouton and mask with the cream sauce. Garnish with a sliced apple and a little parsley and serve to your famished guests! For desert do include a selection of fine cheeses from Normandy such as Neufchâtel, Neufchatel, Pont L'Evêque, Livarot and of course, the world-famous Camembert. All are to die for without question!! Have the Calvados on standby for any emergency.

Now about those wines...

Very little need be said about today's selection of wines. I turn to the Val de Loire because it is home to some very enjoyable light wines such as a Chinon-an old favorite on mine from long cafe days and nights in Paris. I've also included a Vouvray which just happens to be one of my daughter's favorites, and I can see why. I've noted an excellent Semillon from Autralia's Hunter Valley.  Lastly, the Bourgueil and Graves are legendary in their own right and hardly need an explanation other than my recommendation to just drink and enjoy and damn the torpedoes! 


Bourgueil - Val de Loire, Domaine Bruneau-Dupuy,  Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil

Chinon - Val de Loire, Domaine Charles Joguet

Semillon - Hunter Valley, First Creek Winemaker’s Reserve

Graves - Bordeaux Blanc, Château Graville-Lacoste

Vouvray - Val de Loire, Domaine Jean Claude Bougrier 

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