Any story on yet another Cannes Festival was a "non-starter" as far as I was concerned. It was like flypaper, it seemed to attract hordes of mindless followers stuck on the intimate details and every so boring lives of movie stars. I told my editor as much. His reply had all the usual sensitivity, "there's a great flower arranging exposition in DesMoines if that interests more if not, then bone voyage or however they pronounce it. Cannes' near Normandy, right?" Correcting him was pointless.
Most people would probably give their left arm to head to the South of France for an opportunity to cook a little under the Mediterranean sun until well done. For me, having just recently covered the Chocolate Festival in Le Cannet - now there's a real story - and to return so soon if but only for the opportunity to rub shoulders with the glitterati, the scions of the silver screen, both young, old and well preserved, left me about as excited as a bucket of warm spit, as the saying goes. Arguably, there was more silicone per square inch during these two weeks than anywhere in the world, including Hollywood.
When in search of a good story, I inevitably consider my appetite compass and my unending search for good solid food du pays and seek divine inspiration from there. One thing for certain, I had to venture away from ground zero, the glitz of high rise monuments to money, the waterfront, the floating mansions, the glamour and the global legions of paparazzi that is Cannes. It was all very suffocating. As the sun slipped quietly away over the Baie de Cannes, I decided it was time that I too slip quietly away in search of Cannes' vieux quartier and the whispered promise of a fine meal.
Le Suquet is the old quarter of Cannes and known for its climbing, winding cobbled streets laid out some 400 years ago. Le Suquet was originally a fisherman's neighborhood and thankfully the streets are now lined with very good local restaurants and many, if not all, paying homage to their fishing heritage. My culinary GPS was letting me know I was on the right track and getting closer. I knew that somewhere, tucked-in amongst the bistros and restaurants lining Rue Saint Antoine, I would find my real story. A culinary encounter of the best kind - une vrais trouvaille.
One is certainly not at lost to find a restaurant in Cannes all you have to do is make a left turn or a right one. The challenge has always been to find one that has not completely lost its culinary raison d'être, if you will, one that is not so shockingly unconcerned about the authenticity and quality of their food, the preparation or the service. Sadly enough, when wearing bottom line blinders, they seem to be in the majority and all charging a proverbial arm and a leg and twice that if you are not du pays, let alone do not speak French. Persistence, a strange quantity I seem to have plenty of, is necessary especially when it comes to finding a good meal.
Voila, there tucked away among other restaurants lining the rue d'Antibes was my destination. A most charming little establishment that had managed to successfully hold on to its tradition and served Provencal style dishes prepared with the care and respect for the original recipes. There was clearly no other option. Sipping my way through a chilled bottle of Rose de Provence Corail, 2010, I had great inner turmoil deciding between the Estouffade provençale, which is beef with red wine and beaucoup garlic and the Ange de mer served with ratatouille maison. I chose the monkfish and it was quite simply superb! I over indulged myself, which happens sometimes, and started with the house fish soup and the accompanying rouille which was spectacular. I somehow charmed Madame into revealing a few cooking details about my main course on the promise that I would return soon with a busload of my tourist friends, all very hungry and sunburned and of course yelling in English to be better understood. A great meal, a great adventure and maybe a story too.
Monkfish with Ratatouille - Ange de Mer avec Ratatouille
Ingredients
1 pound eggplant, cut into 1-inch cubes (3 cups)
1 medium-large zucchini, cut into 1-inch pieces (2 cups)
1 large bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces (1 1/2 cups)
1 onion, cut into 1-inch pieces
4 teaspoon olive oil, divided
2 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme (or 1 teaspoon dried)
Vegetable oil cooking spray
2 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
1 jar (14 ounces) prepared marinara sauce (her sauce recipe was never revealed)
4 monkfish fillets (about 6 ounces each)
3 tablespoon finely chopped fresh basil (plus leaves for garnish)
2 tablespoon drained capers
Preparation
Make sure your white or rose wines are well chilled.
Remove the longest of three filaments which is often used as a lure to attract cooks as well as other fishes, which the monkfish then typically swallows whole. You've been warned! I saw this happen once and I was at lost how to explain to two crying children.
Heat oven to 450°F. Toss eggplant, zucchini, bell pepper and onion with 2 teaspoon oil in a bowl.
Add thyme; season with salt and pepper and toss again. Coat a shallow baking pan with cooking spray.
Arrange vegetables on pan and roast until tender, about 20 minutes. Stir in garlic and marinara.
Cover loosely with foil and roast 10 minutes more. Remove pan from oven. Stir in chopped basil. Rub fillets with remaining 2 teaspoon oil; season with salt and pepper. Nestle fish in vegetables; cover loosely with foil.
Bake until fish is just cooked through, about 10 minutes. Top with basil leaves and capers.
And now about those wines...
You are not going to be anywhere near wrong by sticking with local/region wines - a good rose or a white du pays and you will be in heaven, I can assure you!
2010 Saint Roch Les Vignes Rose, Provence, France
50% Grenache/50% Cinsault. This Rose shows soft, delicate aromas of cherry, strawberry, blood-orange, watermelon, and chalky/mineral notes. This wine is bone dry my friends, and mouth-watering. A real "no brainer" for salads, springtime fare, parties on the deck or when looking out at the Baie de Cannes!
2010 Domaine de la Fouquette, Rose' d'Aurore, Provence, France
65% Grenache/30% Cinsault/5% Rolle. The color of this wine is immediately captivating; displaying a spectrum of pale salmon, pale pink, and silvery-watermelon in the glass. On the palate, this wine has a presence of cherry, strawberry, faint cranberry, with a touch of tangerine, watermelon, and a dusty minerality. Impressive balance and a truly stunning wine.
2004 Sorin Cotes de Provence Cuvee Privee, Provence, France
Made with Grenache 40%, Syrah 40%, Carignan 15%, Mourvedre 5%. Something of a hound-dog but if you're looking local then this is your baby. The wine is made in the heart of the seacoast town of Bandol, just a few clicks from the sea (the Med that is not the Adriatic.) Black cherry and blackberry flavors with a long and satisfying finish.
2007 Mas Bruguiere La Grenadiere, Côteaux du Languedoc, France
OK I fall on my sword and I'm recommending a little wine that is in the "general area" but not from Provence but rather the Languedoc region. It's and exceptional one and worthy enough for me to break my golden rule: go global drink local. This gem is 60% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre. The characteristics of the terroir unmistakably comes through this wine with beautiful hints of lavender. You can close your eyes and almost be there yourself. Très evocative, highly drinkable and reasonable. The trinity of heavenly delight.
Comments